Phong Nam Valley (Cao Bang) – Travel Guide to Hidden Paradise

No too far from the well known Ban Gioc waterfall you will find the unknown Phong Nam valley. Even though the area is so close to waterfalls, this fairy tail looking valley is hardly visited by tourist and that is strange. Because in this stunning valley you will find impressive mountains with vast jungle, stretch out rice fields, picturesque villages of minorities and a calm, beautiful stream running through it.

What is Phong Nam valley?

Aerial view of Phong Nam Valley with a river running through a valley surrounded by rice fields and mountains.

Phong Nam Valley is a hidden gem tucked away in the northern province of Cao Bang, just a short distance from the famous Ban Gioc Waterfall. Despite its proximity to one of Vietnam’s most renowned natural attractions, Phong Nam Valley remains largely off the radar for most tourists, making it a peaceful retreat for those seeking untouched beauty. The valley is a true fairy tale setting, with towering limestone karsts covered in lush jungle, expansive rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see, and quaint ethnic minority villages dotting the landscape. A calm and meandering stream winds its way through the valley, adding to the serene and picturesque atmosphere that feels like stepping back in time.

View of the river going through Phong Nam Valley - A hidden gem in Cao Bang

The charm of Phong Nam Valley lies not only in its stunning natural beauty but also in the authenticity of the rural life that continues here much as it has for generations. The valley offers you a chance to witness the everyday lives of local farmers working in the fields, water buffaloes grazing, and children playing by the riverside. The combination of dramatic mountains, vibrant green fields, and the gentle flow of the river creates an idyllic scene that feels almost otherworldly—a perfect escape from the more touristy destinations of Vietnam.

What to see in Phong Nam valley

Ngoc Conh Town: Chinese Border Town

The largest town in Phong Nam Valley, Ngoc Con Town in Trung Khanh Disitrct, serves as a gateway to this hidden paradise. A 10 km road, although bumpy due to occasional truck traffic, connects it to the main highway. The town itself is split by the Quay Son River, which originates in China and flows through the valley, creating picturesque scenes of rice fields and villages nestled against the backdrop of jungle-clad mountains.

Chinese border
Chinese border

Ngoc Con is also a border town with China, featuring a border gate primarily used for trade. You might see trucks transporting goods across the border, which contributes to the road’s condition.

Quay Son River

Quay Son river
Quay Son river

The Quay Son River is the lifeblood of Phong Nam Valley, providing water for the rice fields and shaping the landscape. Its presence adds a touch of serenity and beauty to the valley, especially during the harvest season when the rice fields turn a brilliant yellow, creating stunning reflections on the water. You might even spot locals using the stream for bathing or washing clothes, offering a glimpse into their daily lives.

Beyond Trung Khanh: Unveiling hidden corners

Don’t limit yourself to Ngoc Con town; Phong Nam Valley has much more to offer. Venture further south along the smaller roads that branch off from the main river. Explore the villages of Na Chang, Na Tong, Lung Dieng, Na Doan, and Da But, where you’ll encounter even more breathtaking rice fields, smaller streams, and imposing mountains. Here, you’ll witness the authentic rural life of ethnic minority communities, with farmers working in the fields and farm animals roaming freely.

Rice fields & mountain vistas

Phong Nam valley in Cao Bang
Rice fields are placed between the montains.

The rice fields in Phong Nam Valley are a testament to the ingenuity and hard work of the local people. These expansive fields, nestled between the mountains, create a stunning visual spectacle, especially during the golden season when they turn a brilliant yellow. The surrounding mountains, covered in lush jungle, provide a dramatic backdrop to the valley, creating a landscape that is both picturesque and awe-inspiring.

Farm animals and rural life

Phong Nam valley
Farm animals walking on the roads

As you explore the valley, you’ll encounter a variety of farm animals, including buffaloes, horses, and donkeys, adding to the charm and authenticity of the rural setting. These animals often roam freely on the roads and through the fields, offering a glimpse into the traditional agricultural practices of the region.

Smaller streams and waterfalls

Phong Nam valley
Smaller stream run through other parts of the valley

In addition to the Quay Son River, smaller streams and waterfalls flow through the valley, creating picturesque scenes and opportunities for refreshing dips. Explore these hidden waterways, surrounded by lush greenery and the sounds of nature, for a truly immersive experience in Vietnam’s countryside.

Phong Nam valley

Phong Nam valley viewpoint

If you want to make a stunning photo of the landscape high up without a drone, or you just want to be amazed with a beautiful view, you can visit the Phong Nam valley viewpoint. Just be aware as this valley is not touristy, don’t expect a well made path up to the viewpoint. The start of the path up to the viewpoint is a bit hard to find and after rain, the path can be dangerously slippery.

Start of the path up: Google Maps. The start is next to a house, close to a blue pond.

The path up is quite clear, so you don’t need a local guide, though it is not a super easy way up. It takes around 1 hour to get to the top and the view is absolutely worth it. Locals recommend to get there around sunrise, when some of the mountains are peaking out from the clouds and valley is shining gold from the sun.

Phong Nam valley in Cao Bang
View from the Phong Nam valley viewpoint

How to get to Phong Nam Valley?

Location

Phong Nam Valley is situated in the northern part of Cao Bang province, approximately 80 kilometers (a 2.5-hour drive) from Cao Bang City and a mere 26 kilometers (less than an hour’s drive) from the iconic Ban Gioc Waterfall. To reach this hidden gem, you’ll first need to travel to Cao Bang City from Hanoi, which is around 280 kilometers away.

Because of all the travel times, it is advisable to spend at least two days exploring the area. For those wanting to see more of Cao Bang’s hidden gems, a longer stay of three or more days is recommended.

While there’s no airport or train station in Cao Bang, you can choose from a few comfortable options:

Getting to Cao Bang City from Hanoi

To reach Phong Nam Valley, the first step is getting to Cao Bang City from Hanoi.

Sleeper Bus: Taking a sleeper bus is a great option if you want to save daytime hours for exploring. These buses travel overnight, allowing you to rest during the journey. However, not everyone sleeps well on these buses, and there are some safety concerns to consider.

Limousine Vans: Limousine vans are another comfortable option, offering daytime travel in a more spacious and luxurious setting. Although you travel during the day, losing some exploration hours, these vans are affordable and provide a relaxed journey.

Option 1: Driving Motorbike

Renting a motorbike in Cao Bang is quite easy, with several rental shops available, and most accommodations can assist in arranging it. The average rental price is around 100k – 150k VND per day. While traffic in Cao Bang is generally light and the roads are less challenging than those in Ha Giang, riding a motorbike is recommended only for those with a valid license, including an International Driving Permit (IDP), and some prior experience.

Driving Around Phong Nam Valley

Since Phong Nam Valley is located a considerable distance from Cao Bang City, it’s advisable to stay overnight near Ban Gioc Waterfall. This way, you can visit both the waterfall and Phong Nam Valley in one day. Set your navigation to Ngoc Con Town (Trung Khanh Disitrict) or the Phong Nam Valley Viewpoint on Google Maps. Once you arrive in the valley, the adventure begins—there aren’t many specific sights to drive to, so it’s best to follow the river and explore the area freely. If you’re without a guide, getting lost might sound strange, but it’s often the best way to stumble upon breathtaking views. Allow plenty of time for this valley, as it’s well worth the exploration.

Option 2: By Tour (Motorbike or Car)

If you don’t drive a motorbike, don’t worry—you can still explore this hidden gem. Local Vietnam can help you organize a private tour to Phong Nam Valley. Due to its off-the-beaten-path location, all tours are private, meaning you’ll have a guide just for your group. You can choose to ride on the back of a motorbike or travel by car. A motorbike offers the best sense of adventure and makes it easier to explore the smaller roads in Phong Nam. If you prefer more comfort, especially in unfavorable weather, a car is a good option. While the main road and viewpoint in the valley are accessible by car, navigating the smaller roads might be more challenging.

Check out our off-the-beaten-path Cao Bang Loop tour, or request a custom-made tour to create your dream journey through Northern Vietnam and beyond.

Best time to visit

Phong Nam Valley is beautiful year-round, with each season offering its unique charm. During the summer months, you can expect more rain, but this also means the rice fields are at their most vibrant, transitioning from lush green to golden yellow as the harvest season approaches. The surrounding scenery is also at its greenest during this time. In the dry season, the weather is more stable and pleasant, but be prepared for cooler temperatures in December and January. While it can get quite chilly, the valley is lower in elevation compared to places like Sapa and Ha Giang, so it doesn’t experience the same intense cold.

Phong Nam Cao Bang

Tips for visiting Phong Nam valley

Road Conditions

You won’t need to worry about traffic in Phong Nam Valley—there’s hardly any. However, the lack of traffic also means that the roads are not well-developed everywhere. If you choose to drive yourself, be cautious and drive safely, as some roads may be in poor condition.

No Restaurants or Facilities

Phong Nam Valley is a true hidden gem, untouched by tourism development. While this adds to its charm, it also means there are no restaurants or facilities available. It’s best to eat breakfast at one of the homestays near Ban Gioc Waterfall and then spend the morning exploring Phong Nam Valley. Plan to return to the Ban Gioc area for lunch.

Accommodations Close to Phong Nam Valley

There are no accommodations directly in the valley, but you’ll find several options not too far away, particularly near Ban Gioc Waterfall. This area has a village with multiple homestays. Along the Quay Son River, you’ll find places like Lan Homestay, a traditional homestay with comfortable facilities that serves as a great base for exploring Phong Nam Valley.

Offline Navigation Maps

While having a Vietnamese SIM card for internet access is recommended, it’s also a good idea to download offline maps through Google Maps or Maps.me. In this remote valley, there’s a high chance you won’t have internet access, so having offline maps can be essential for navigation.

Other places to visit around Phong Nam valley

The valley might seem a bit too far from Hanoi to visit for a day. Luckily you can combine your trip to other stunning sights in Cao Bang. As mentioned before, very close to the valley you can find the infamous Ban Gioc waterfall, the most impressive waterfall of Vietnam. Another stunning destination is Nui Thung Mountain and the Thang Hen Lakes (60 km).

Read here all the best things to do in Cao Bang.

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